Not sure which one?
Most projects touch three or four of these. Describe what you want and we'll work out the scope with you.
Ask us →Est. 2009 · NJ HIC #13VH0000000 · ICPI Certified
Masonry, hardscape and landscape construction across northern New Jersey. Eight inches of compacted base under a patio, twelve under a driveway. That's the reason ours are still flat in year twenty — and the reason we're rarely the cheapest number you'll get.
What we build
Thirteen trades, every one of them installed by our own crews. We don't broker jobs out, which is why the person who priced your project is on site the week it's built.
Veneer, piers, chimneys, stoops and repointing. Laid over a proper drainage plane with flashing and weep holes, because a stone wall keeps water out at the back, not at the face.
Planting keyed to sun, soil and how much time you actually want to spend. Beds built with a real edge, amended soil and mulch at a depth that suppresses weeds without smothering roots.
Paver and natural stone patios, walks, driveways and retaining walls. Eight inches of compacted base under a patio, twelve under a driveway, and a pitch that runs water away from the house.
Footings below frost, broom-finished flatwork, and stamped concrete where you want the look of stone at a lower cost. Control joints laid out before the pour, not chased afterwards.
Pool decks, mortared coping, raised bond beams and spa surrounds. We work alongside your pool builder — we don't install the shell, and we'll say so up front.
French drains, dry wells, catch basins, downspout tie-ins and zoned sprinkler systems. Water is the reason hardscape fails, so we deal with it before we pave over it.
Cedar and aluminium pergolas, roofed pavilions, seat walls and privacy screens. Anything with a roof sits on footings poured below the frost line.
Structural cores on a poured footing, veneer to match the house, and appliance cut-outs sized to the units you've actually bought rather than to a generic drawing.
Wood-burning and gas fire pits with firebrick liners, and full outdoor fireplaces with a proper smoke chamber and a flue sized to the opening.
Low-voltage brass fixtures, hardscape lights set into wall caps and risers, and transformers sized with headroom. Aimed at night, after the planting has grown in.
Cedar, composite and PVC decking on treated framing, plus cedar privacy fencing and pool-code compliant aluminium. Gates hung on adjustable hinges and properly braced.
Mowing, bed care, pruning on a schedule that matches when each plant sets buds, and clean-ups at both ends of the season. We cap the route rather than let it outgrow the crew.
Excavation, cut and fill, demolition and final grading. Utilities located before every dig and backfill compacted in lifts rather than dropped in and hoped over.
Most projects touch three or four of these. Describe what you want and we'll work out the scope with you.
Ask us →Under the patio
Two patios can look identical on the day they're finished. Four winters later, one is flat and one has a dip by the back door. The difference is everything in this drawing below the top layer — and it's the first thing a low bid removes.
This is the section we build to for a residential patio in a freeze-thaw climate. Driveways get twelve inches of base instead of eight.
Recent builds
A sample of the last two seasons. We'll give you addresses of finished jobs near you so you can see them in person before you sign anything.
How a build runs
The order matters — every stage below depends on the one above it being done right. You'll know which stage you're in on any given day.
We paint the shape on the lawn and shoot the grades. You see the real footprint before you decide anything.
A scaled plan, material samples in your hand, and one number — not an allowance and a hope.
Utilities marked by the state locate service, then we dig 12–14" below finish grade and haul the spoil off site.
Geotextile down, then ¾" quarry process in three lifts, each one plate-compacted before the next.
One inch of bedding sand, screeded to ⅛" per foot of fall running away from the house.
Field first, perimeter last. Full pieces where you look, cuts tucked where you don't.
Restraint spiked at 10" on centre, polymeric sand swept and tamped in, then wet down to set.
We check the grades with you, clean the site, and register the warranty in your name before we pull off.
Materials
We're not tied to one manufacturer. You'll see samples from several in your hand before you choose, and we'll tell you plainly which ones hold colour and which don't.
What homeowners say
They dug out fourteen inches when the other two quotes said six. Four winters in and there isn't a single low spot, including the section that runs across the old fill by the garage.
The estimate was one page with one price on it. Nothing got added later, and when they hit ledge on day two they ate it rather than sending a change order.
Same four guys every day for nine days. They swept the street each evening, which sounds small until you've lived through a job where nobody did.
Where we work
We keep our radius tight on purpose. Crews aren't burning two hours a day in traffic, and if something needs attention three years from now we're a short drive away.
Questions
Concrete pavers run roughly $28–$48 per square foot installed. Natural bluestone runs $55–$90. Most patios we build land between $18,000 and $45,000 once you account for excavation, base, steps and the disposal of what came out. Walls, drainage and lighting are priced separately so you can see what each one costs you.
Settling is almost always a base problem, not a paver problem. Pavers set on four inches of loose stone will move; eight inches of quarry process compacted in lifts over a proof-rolled subgrade will not. If a section of ours does settle within five years, we lift it, fix the base and reset it at our cost.
A 600 square foot patio is five to eight working days. A driveway is six to ten. Walls depend on height and access. We give you a start date and a finish date in writing, and we don't start a second job while yours is open.
A patio at grade usually doesn't in most of our towns. Walls over four feet, anything inside a setback, near a wetlands buffer, or that changes drainage usually does. We handle the application and the inspections, and we'll tell you at the estimate whether yours needs one.
Yes, and we'll be honest about whether it's worth it. Sunken sections, failed joints, leaning walls and cracked steps are often fixable. If the base underneath was never built properly, we'll tell you that a repair is money spent twice.
We install into late November and start again in March. Polymeric sand needs the surface above freezing to cure and mortar can't be laid on frozen ground, so mid-winter work is limited to design, permits and scheduling. Booking in January usually gets you an April start.
The manufacturer's warranty covers the units themselves — usually lifetime and transferable on Techo-Bloc and EP Henry. On top of that we cover our installation for five years: settlement, joint failure, edge movement and wall deflection. Efflorescence and normal colour weathering aren't defects and aren't covered by anyone.
Yes, through a third-party lender, typically over 60 to 144 months with a soft credit pull to check your rate. We'll show you the monthly figure next to the total so you can compare honestly. There's no discount for cash and no premium for financing.
Book an estimate
Tell us roughly what you're thinking. We'll come out, paint the shape on the grass, shoot the grades and leave you with a fixed price — usually within four days of the visit.